Traditionally tile was always 1 full tile or 1 trim tile beyond the outside edge of a tub and if you go back a little further in time, full tile was started at the back wall and continued until it went beyond the tub's edge with a full size terminating trim tile or a full tile cut to fit around the curved edge of the tub and continuing down to the floor, plus a trim tile, i.e. 2" x 6" surface Bullnose. Mathematically tiles would extend beyond the tub about 3" and sometimes further out if it was an older 30 inch tub. In your case, being a single custom installation, you were short changed by my and most professional installers standards. In cases where there is tile wainscoting it would have been simple to add another row of tile on a side panel before making the turn down to the wainscoting. It's never too late to correct his oversight. Sorry, but a complaint by you to the Industry would back what I have said and "Shame On" your installer. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

If the removal is going easy, as you say, it might behoove you to invest in a stiff 6" wide putty knife that has the metal of the blade extended up thru the handle so it won't damage the handle should you pound on it with a hammer. Place the flat of the blade on the wall and tap it down on the end of the handle a bit at a time (slowly) just behind the tile, continuing until it pops or you get the blade down far enough so you can persuade it off without further damage to the wall. The mastic on the wall will have to be scrapped off with a putty knife blade or a wallpaper scrapper that has a special 4" razor blade at its end. Wall repairs can be made with a variety of patching material available in the paint department of most hardware, paint or "big box" stores. There are too many to mention but, if you ask the associate, I'm sure they can recommend the right product. Please be prepared to tell them what is currently on the surface of the wall. Paint maybe? or ? "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

Porcelain tiles are not porous by nature, however if the surface has a little texture and not perfectly smooth suction cups are not going to work. An option would be to use a little epoxy under the cups to hold them in place. Pick the right spot because after five minutes you won't be able to remove the mirror unless you cut the rubber cups. Epoxy is extremely tough, but can be scraped off with a razor blade once the cups are "destroyed" should you ever want to remove the mirror. If possible buy an extra set of rubber cups now, just in case. Go to your local hardware store and look for the 2-part vials of 5 minute epoxy. Once the 2 parts are mixed the chemical reaction begins to cure the compound immediately, however check the cure time on the label under a load and secure the mirror cups in the suction position with duct tape until double the cure time has elapsed. If you can install the cups and then add the mirror load, that would be even better. If not, find a way to support the "load" until the cure time has elapsed, then give me a "Thumbs Up" the next time you shave.  Caution: It won't take much epoxy to do the job so don't put a big glob on the cups that will just ooze out the sides and make a mess. An easy way would be to use something like a popsicle stick to spread a thin layer of the epoxy over the rubber inside the cup staying at least a 1/4" away from the edges of the cups. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

I would like to help you but you haven't given me enough information. How large an area is your backsplash, how large are the tiles in the package, and what kind of ceramic tiles are they, i.e. Porcelain, plain traditional wall tiles ect? Some tiles are easier to cut than others and I can't help you until I know what they are. Please include information on what kind of cutting tools you may have or are willing to buy or rent. A tile wet saw for instance or a ceramic tile cutting board, which really doesn't cut, but just snaps the tiles after they are scored. I can help you further if you also include the type of surface you intend to tile over. Happy New Year, and Don't Drink and Drive. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

You have several options, three of which are Cement Backerboards (CBU), Liquid Latex Modified Mortars, or my TAVY Thin-Skin Underlayment. Cement Backerboards raise the height of the floor an extra 3/8 of an inch when you include the installation mortar, Liquid Latex Modified Mortars are more expensive and have a smaller window of workable time for a novice or you can use Tavy Thin-Skin Underlayment which doesn't raise the floor enough to measure and is guaranteed to bond to your linoleum as long as there isn't any wax, old or new, on it. www.tavytools.com for sources. TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

Thank you for visiting our forum. 6" x 6" wall tiles are generally 5/16" thick. I've never seen 1/8" THIN tiles that you say you have. There are hundreds of manufacturers and finding a replacement tile may not be possible. Try removing all pieces of the broken tile and examine it to see if it has a marking on it’s backside that can give me a hint of its origin. If you can’t retrieve enough sections of a full tile, try to carefully lift another tile without injuring it and tell me what you see, including color, markings and grid design. If all the sections of the broken tile can fit back together like a puzzle, without any pieces missing, the tile sections can be glued together with marble epoxy. If small fragments are missing they can be filled with the same epoxy, which can be tinted to a close color match. You are also welcome to send me a full tile or sections or preferably all the sections of the broken full tile so I can inspect it for you. Package it carefully, and I will return it to you after I check it out. There will be no charge for this service and I will even pay the return postage. “Your friend when you need one”, Armen Tavy aka Spacerman.   www.tavytools.com            My address is: Armen Tavy 3304 Milton Pl. Plant City FL 33566

Glad to help.

1- NO to thin-set mortar, but there is another way that works if you can buy ingredients in small quantities. Washed Masons Sand and Portland Cement, mixed 3 parts sand to one part cement first, and then gradually add just enough clean water while "boxing" the ingredients together. Test the mix in your bear hand, so it will hold together in your fist after opening your hand; like a soft snow ball. This mixture is rubbed into the joints to completely fill them to the brim, with your rubber gloved hands. Let it dry/set up for about 15 minutes or more before rubbing the joints with a large swatch of "Burlap" which might be hard to find these days however, "cheese cloth" folded into multi-layers can be a substitute. Remove excess grout without removing more than is necessary after the joints stiffen, not more than 20 minutes. Wash the joints with a large “damp” "Grout Sponge" (Hydro Sponge); they're big, thick and yellow. Always wipe on a diagonal while the joints are fresh. Wait until grout haze forms (20 + -minutes) and wash again with a damp sponge and clean water. Let it dry for 30 + - minutes and wash again with clean water rinsing the sponge often. “Single” long strokes with each flat clean edge of your sponge, there are 4, and then rinse the sponge before repeating the process over and over again. You may use parallel strokes along walls, but be careful not to “rake out grout”. Hold the sponge flat on your work grasping a top edge with your thumb and forefinger and pressing the sponge down with your remaining three fingers. Don't forget to use a "kneeling board" and pay attention to your “toes”, so you won't disturb the fresh grout joints. "Long” single sponge strokes can be 3 to 4 feet. Overlap sponge strokes slightly.

2- Brick sealers will do the same job, but you must decide on a Penetrating Sealer or a Top Sealer. The first doesn't change the appearance of the brick and the last brings out the deep brick colors and adds a shine or luster. However if you use a Penetrating Sealer first a Top Sealer will not give you the deep color after the fact.

3- Typically ceramic tile grout should be about a consistency, a little thinner than "mayonnaise", but not as fluid as "ketchup". The trouble with grout bags is the consistency has to be "runny" in order for it to squeeze out. A longer initial waiting time before washing is necessary, when using a grout bag.

There's nothing better than a job well done by ones self. Step back and admire your work and get someone to give you a pat on the back because, you've earned it.

These instructions are limited and not easy to explain without going into extensive detail. I do the best I can in a "Short Environment", so you have to use good judgment in evaluating what you have done. You can come back to the forum as many times as you like because your experience helps others as well. "Feedback", hopefully positive, after your project is completed is as important to me and our forum visitors as what I have given to you. From Sunny Florida "TIRTGIM", Armen Tavy

You applied grout using a grout bag but cleaned/washed the grout off as if it were ceramic tile getting grout all over the face of the brick veneer. Can you imagine a brick building several stories high with a similar problem? When using a grout bag the intention is to prevent grout from getting on the surface of the brick. The grout is allowed to dry in the joints so excess can be scraped off at the joints without the use of any water and certainly not washed with a sponge. Sanded grout for ceramic tile does not contain enough sand of the right "Grit"and ratio and doesn't have any hydrated lime to make it sticky and "puffy"/fat. If you're going to use a grout bag you should buy pre-mixed grout that designed for bricks not ceramic tile. Let it dry enough so the excess can be tooled off with a long thin grout striking trowel. They make them in several widths to accommodate your spacing. The other option, if you choose to use sanded ceramic tile grout, is to coat the brick veneer surfaces "only" with a grout release that's designed to protect the open pores of brick, which washes off in the grouting cleaning step should you use a wet sponge for clean up. Masons traditional would use a mild solution of Muriatic Acid (Very Dangerous), about 15 to 1, and a stiff brush (No Metal and wear eye protection) to touch up any grout that overlaps onto the face of the bricks or their  edges. Try using a milder and safer Phosphoric Acid first on your samples to see if the haze will wash off and rinse several times with new batches of clean water. Check your local tile stores for Aqua Mix's or Tile Guard's "Grout Haze Remover". There are other brands as well. Always rinse thoroughly. If your installation is a floor and not walls, your job will be tougher. A "shop vac" will be necessary to remove dry grout as you tool the joints on floors. If you intend to seal your brick after you are done grouting a "Top Sealer" Satin or High Gloss will give you a wet look that may also "hide" some "light" grout haze. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

Here’s a case where a carpenter installed the floor joist with the crown up as he should have, but this particular joist should have been used somewhere else rather than in a bathroom floor where tile may be installed. Here's my best recommendation. I would install my TAVY "Thin-Skin" Tile Underlayment over the entire floor as per instructions and then mark two straight lines, one on each side and parallel to the high point of the “Hump”. The lines should start at a point where the ¼” pitch begins and ends. Lets assume the ¼” starts at a distance of about + - 14 inches from the “Hump” and on both sides. Purchase some ¼” cement backerboard (CBU) and lay the backerboard on the floor touching the line and continuing to the perimeter wall. Do this on both sides of the “Hump”. Find a suitable straight edge, one long enough to span across the void/space and lay flat on both CBU boards so there aren’t any air gaps under the straight edge. If the floor looks like it will be flat enough to satisfy you, cement the CBU down with thin-set mortar and secure them with proper fasteners. Be sure to space fasteners a minimum of 8” in the “Field” and every 4” or less on the edges (and perimeters) along the void/space. Mix some modified mortar, pack and overfill the void/space in-between the CBU boards, and then use a metal straight edge or similar instrument to “Screed” the excess thin set mortar off, leaving a relatively flat floor. Let this cure hard for several hours or overnight, if you have time, and observe your work the next day. Walk across the area and see if there are any weak spots. If it looks good, your job is done. However, if there is any movement you may need another ¼” layer of “CBU” over the entire floor or, if there is just a hairline crack/s  between “fill” and “CBU” you may get away with just another layer of my TAVY "Thin-Skin" Underlayment over the entire floor for hairline crack suppression before proceeding with your installation. The other option is to dam the perimeter of the room high enough so you can fill the entire area with a self leveling Portland cement mix that is readily available at most tile outlets. Wire lath, may be necessary, if the present floor has any flexing. “TIRTGIM” Armen Tavy

Exterior facades are always a challenge in the tile industry. “OE” or “Operator Error” is at the top of the list of job failures. Weather and climate also play a major role in the success or failure of a project. “Weather” includes, wind, cold, heat, sunlight and obviously rain. “Climate” includes heat and direct sunlight, as well as cold and freezing cold; obviously if it’s snowing, don’t set tile. Don’t set tile if there’s a frost warning overnight. The Tile Installation Mortar needs time to cure enough before being subjected to near or below freezing temperatures. Freezing temperature forecasts for the next several days after an installation should raise a “red flag” and Tile Installations must be delayed until day and night temperatures are ideal and forecast for several days. Cold temperatures also slow down the curing time so more time may be needed. Conversely, high temperatures adversely shorten curing time, sometimes "To Fast". Minimum 50 degrees to a maximum 90 to 95 degrees for at least a full 24 to 30 hour time span during good weather; and when it goes into the triple digits, a qualified tile inspector should be consulted or hired to oversee the installation as it proceeds. Wind plays a major role, as does direct sunlight on a hot day. Installations, in direct sunlight, on a hot summer day should be avoided, especially if the sunlight will be accompanied with wind or wind gusts.  The best mortars are a pre-requisite and must be mixed in smaller frequent batches. Open time for the mortar is reduced significantly on hot windy days, and again, installations should be avoided in direct sunlight. Check the sites carefully for exposure to direct sunlight on “hot” days and time the installations accordingly; sometimes splitting the days work into two halves, is a viable option. The first shift from sunrise to mid or late morning and the second shift, late afternoon until dark works for some locations of the country, and when installations are on high rises or at the tops of building facades, additional care must enter into the equation, further limiting installation hours to the best weather conditions. Hear is a time when cloudy calm days are a bonus. “Back Buttering” every single tile before installing and “Beating In” is a must. Liquid Latex Modified Mortars are the best bet, but care must be taken when a batch gets older than 30 minutes during extreme conditions. Smaller work areas are always recommended, so tiles can be installed before mortar “Skins Over”. Testing a set tile by removing one every hour, or sooner, to check for mortar transference is prudent. Poor transference, of tile setting mortar, to the backs of tiles during extreme conditions, is a warning to immediately stop work until conditions improve. Rapid set mortars can be useful but, their “open time” is reduced dramatically enough that I feel there use should be limited, or even avoided, on large projects.  Dug, if you are an architect that is or may be called on regularly for tile installations, please take the time to contact me directly about a new amazing “Floating Tile Flooring” system of mine that I’m introducing at Surfaces 2009 at my trade show booth number G-2009. Contact me if you like at spacerman@tavytools.com and/or if you are going to attend, please at least visit with me and introduce yourself referencing our initial meeting on, “The Tile Doctor”.com forum.

“TIRTGIM” Armen Tavy

The least expensive part of a tile installation is the mortar you choose, so it always behooves you to buy the best. Liquid Latex Modified Mortar or at least the highest grade Polymer Modified should be your choice. If confused, these products, made by name brand companies, are priced accordingly; highest price, better product, you do get what you pay for. ALWAYS Skim Coat the entire new or old substrate first with your tiling mortar, and let it dry hard, then test it to assure that you have achieved a good mechanical bond before tiling. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

You didn't say where the required hole lines up on the tile, so here is what I need from you so I can help. What size is the tile and how large does the hole have to be. Please include what kind or ceramic tile it is, a regular 4 1/4" wall tile, etc., or other size tile, the size of hole and its location in inches from its centerpoint to the 4 perimeter walls of the tile.  "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

Please enjoy this Holiday Season and then let us all join hands for a New Years Resolution in 2009 to re-create the world as it once was. When selfish greed enters into any equation, the outcome always comes back to bite where it hurts the most. The profit is short lived, as demonstrated by the present world economy. We must go back to how the system is supposed to work because, a one sided trade system puts all the balls in one pocket, and then there are no more; and when All the Balls are in one pocket, “The Table is Empty”, and the masses will soon want the balls back, and then “they” will be No More; it’s “World History” all over again, NO One Nation or Ruler has ever had it for very long and the outcome is always predictable and inevitable. Since we know all this, we must band together and put a stop to “it” and eliminate the needless suffering in between.  .......... Armen Tavy, Plant City, Florida

 Can't answer a question when there are unknowns. What size and kind of tile, what was the brand of adhesive you used, and give me an overview of the instructions on the bucket. What is the substrate you're tiling over and what is PVAed? If your tiles are over 6", tile adhesives are not recommended as a substitute for "Thin-Set Mortar. Get back to me so I can try to help you. “TIRTGIM” Armen Tavy

If it stays wet after a rain it may be because you don't have a place for the rain water to escape. It would probably be a good idea to make a few saw cuts in the wall to allow the water to drain. Galvanized Metal Flashing must be used to protect wood in the wall. Make sure you seal the flashing with caulk. If insects are a concern, fine gauge galvanized screening will be necessary. Check in the "vent" department of your local hardware store. I bet they have a ready made one that will work for you. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

See 11728

"Slip Stop" (www.slipstop.com) is one name brand that's been around for many years. You literally paint it on, it dries clear and makes it “Slip Proof”. Another option is to apply a “peel and stick” non-skid tape in trouble areas, It’s available in the tile tool department of many retail tile stores. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

You must first tell me what the "adhesive" is. Tile setting mastic or Thin-Set Mortar, etc. How large is the area? What substrate is it on? Sorry, but I can't help you until then. "TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy

Sorry about the delay in response to your question. I've been on holiday in California for the past week and unable to access the forum because of password difficulties. The easiest way is to fill the concave void with Thin-Set Mortar. Overfill the area and then “Screed” off the excess using a straight edge, much like a snow plow. It doesn’t have to be perfect the first time you screed. Let it dry, scrape off excess again by dragging the edge of your tiling trowel across it at a 60 to 80 degree angle, then refill any “holidays”, scrape the area once more after it dries and lightly sand/rub if necessary with a flat tile sanding stone. Armen Tavy

I would suggest taking at least one tile out under the "frig" to see what the bonding problem is. You will have to remove the grout and carefully lift the tile out with a flat tool, as in" a flat molding removing pry bar. Place a stiff 6" putty knife behind the bar to prevent chipping the adjacent tile. Inspect the bonding material to see if it’s glue/adhesive or thin set mortar. If its glue/adhesive you’re in for a lot of work. There is no great solvent for tile adhesives. Your only hope is that the installer also used a too small trowel to install the tiles which would help make your scraping job a little easier. Salvaging the tiles is questionable. Tile adhesives are water base and can usually be softened with water. You could try soaking one tile in warm water overnight to see if it softens enough to make the chore practical. If the installation was done with Thin set mortar and the correct trowel was not chosen resulting in a poor bond, you might be able to literally plaster the floor with modified thin-set mortar to flatten the ridges. A little pre-scraping might make it easier to get a fairly smooth finish to tile over. You might be able to rent a small hand grinder with a dry diamond tile blade and grind the mortar off the backs of the tiles to reuse them again. If backer boards were installed incorrectly and they are moving this would also crack grout, and if this is the case, the whole floor might be a total loss. Tell me what you find and we can talk again. Armen Tavy

Could you send me a picture/s of your shower? It sure would make it easier to help you. Armen Tavy

I'm still waiting for a picture of your cultured marble shower. ArmenTavy

I'm still leaning towards Villeroy&Boch. I hope you use a bathroom mat on this floor because when wet it must be slippery. I love Long Island and Far Rockaway Beach. My childhood summers were spent on that beach. There should be many Villeroy&Boch dealers in the New York area.  Standard Tile is a Dealer, their phone # is 1-800-313-tile or e-mail at:  stdtileimports@aol.com     Armen Tavy

Hey bobsolo, the check is in the mail. There is another option if you can't find this tile. Look for a suitable spot on a wall where you could install a full length mirror, carefully remove the tiles and set the mirror in their place. Always grout with non-sanded grout against a mirror's surface. Thanks, Armen

Ouch, it sounds like "OE", operator error. Believe it or not, tolerances are up to 1/16 of an inch. On my jobs , .001%. instead of trusting luck, I use my TAVY "Tile Puck". If you had this floor installed, most retailers, that also install tiles, would probably re-do a floor like this. You certainly should register a complaint. If it was done by an unlicensed tile installer, he might come back if you can catch him. If he was licensed, "Rattle his Cage". "TIRTGIM" sure applies here. Armen Tavy

Yes, to your first question, 2nd question: Traditionaly floors/pans are done last. In the first 4 posts you never mentioned walls. Now that you bring it up  5 posts later I have to ask if the walls are also Cultured Marble, and if they are, are they flat panels or molded with contours? And if the walls are not C. Marble what are they? Traditionally, floors are done last. I hesitate to recommend “Red Guard” over vertical walls in a shower over Cultured Marble and would ask you to contact: Custom Building Products -   13001 Seal Beach Blvd, Seal Beach  CA- (562) 598-8808  www.custombuildingproducts.com   Their Help Line should be able to give you a yea or nay. Please let us know what they say. Armen Tavy

I don't doubt your measurements and photos tend to be decieving but, they look more like 8 x 12. Either way, rectangular tiles were not the favorite sizes sold by the big box stores. Please re-measure the tiles exactly and then call Mike Molen of Ceramic Tile Supply in Oceanside California, ph # 760-433-3555. If there's anyone who can recognise your tile it would be Mike. Ask him for his e-mail and send him your attachment. Giving it an educated guess, I would say it's either a "Villeory & Boch" Tile or "Laufen International". What is your issue, and how many do you think you need? Sometime, by being creative, you/we can work options. Where do you live? TIRTGIM" Armen Tavy aka Spacerman

See # 11717